Stories

Bruxelles est Charlie: photos

Bruxelles est Charlie: photos

On Sunday, January 11th 2015, I joined 20,000 other residents of Brussels of all creed, origin and colour for a peaceful march in the name of tolerance and freedom of speech, following the appalling carnage carried out in Paris – starting with the Charlie Hebdo killings. Here’s the images.


Protecting the Southern Ocean

Protecting the Southern Ocean

As I write, the dozens of delegates attending this years meeting of the Commission for the Conservation of Antarctic Marine Living Resources (CCAMLR) should be sound asleep in their Hobart hotel rooms, if they’re not out tasting Tasmania’s finest wines in the the Salamanca neighbourhood. Until the end of the month, the officials from 24 […]


The Slaney and the World

The Slaney and the World

For all the travelling I’ve done, it’s always good to come home. I am writing these words 50m away from the River Slaney, in the south east of Ireland, with a a copy of Crossabeg: The Parish and its People (Vol 2) waiting for me. And I’m honoured to be featured in the book. When […]


Camping in Bear Country: Slough Creek Trail, Yellowstone

Camping in Bear Country: Slough Creek Trail, Yellowstone

Slough Creek Trail, on the way to backcountry camping, Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming. This photograph was taken on a hot, hot day at the end of July. It’s usually better to hike earlier in the day, but the relative flatness of the trail, plus some logistics we had to take care of meant a late […]


Ms. Moose and the Porcupine Quills

Ms. Moose and the Porcupine Quills

We almost bumped into Ms. Moose on the way back from Electric Peak – she, and her offspring, Junior, were foraging on the banks of Glen Creek. We came within a few metres of them before stopping still, and backing off a bit. The two moose took off out of the water, and onto the […]


Keeping Bears at Bay in Yellowstone

Keeping Bears at Bay in Yellowstone

Morning light illuminates how we keep our food and backpacks away away from the rain and the bears – a horizontal pole, high above the ground, with backpacks and food strung high above the claws of any curious bear. Us humans, however, sleep in the tent, on the ground with cans of pepper spray for […]


The Breakfast Bear

The Breakfast Bear

Black bear, on the Blacktail Plateau Drive in Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming, USA. We came across this black bear munching on Bearberry Honeysuckle (Lonicera involucrata – aka twinberry) early one morning. Although we sat there for several minutes watching the bear consume breakfast, we were completely ignored until it decided that it eaten all it […]


The Black Marmot of Grand Teton

The Black Marmot of Grand Teton

Mellow the Black Marmot, near Surprise Lake, 3000m up in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. This rather large marmot certainly was a surprise. When we first spotted this black furry creature, stretched out on some rocks, I thought, what the hell, is this a baby black bear? A wolverine?


We can’t let 30 people be our conscience

We can't let 30 people be our conscience

I’ve just posted a blog about the Greenpeace Arctic 30 over on my new Cold Reality website: We Can’t Let 30 people Be Our conscience


Why there are no penguins in the Arctic

Why there are no penguins in the Arctic

So, penguins live in the south, and polar bears in the north – never the twain will meet, despite the best efforts of toymakers and cartoons. But was there ever penguins in the Arctic? Dave investigates.


A Micronation Once Again: The Saltee Islands

A Micronation Once Again: The Saltee Islands

Off the coast of southeast Ireland lie the two small Saltee Islands. Their simple, low-slung landscapes, four or five kilometres of the Wexford fishing village of Kilmore Quay belie their layers of history, folklore and bizarre stories. On approach, there are few warnings of the extent of the islands’ abundant wildlife, but more than 220 […]


Hans Island Debacle Nearing A Solution?

Hans Island Debacle Nearing A Solution?

Our ship approaches a smooth dome of barren rock, worn clean by several millennia of glacial endeavor, in a lonely Arctic waterway, farm from the nearest human settlement. It’s July 2009, and I’m board the Greenpeace ship Arctic sunrise, on a four-month expedition with glacialogists and climatalogists on Greenland’s glaciers – and how they’re reacting […]


Tulip Mania: Photographing People Photographing Flowers

Tulip Mania: Photographing People Photographing Flowers

Woman in blue jeans photographing flowers at the Keukenhof Photographing flowers and undwear at the Keukenhof Photographing People, Photographing flowers. An ugly, and probably mildly tasteless set of images, where I photograph people photographing flowers, and often show off their backsides along the way. Images made on April 2011 at the Keukenhof tulip show at […]


97 Minutes in Barentsburg

97 Minutes in Barentsburg

I am staring at a forest, a painting of a forest. A door opens in the forest, and two men climb out. They close the door, then walk away.
The forest, or rather the painting of a forest, is in the Russian coal-mining town of Barentsburg, about 1200km from the North Pole, one of three inhabited settlements in the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard.


The Things I Found On Bull Island

Bull Island is a new world, less than 200 years old. Grown from a mere sandback after Captain William Bligh (of the Bounty) made his 1801 proposal to stop the silting of the Liffey by constructing of the Bull Wall, the island is today a UNESCO biosphere reserve – a protected area that by definition […]


Polar Bear Encounter: Late Night With Nanuk

This story was first posted as a blog on the Greenpeace Climate blog in August 2009 – while I was on board the Greenpeace ship Arctic Sunrise, off the coast of Greenland as part of a four month expedition investigating climate impacts in the Arctic.


Fata Morgana: Arctic Mirage

There is something unnerving about watching reality bend before one’s eyes. There is what one “knows” to be true, and that which one can see through a telephoto lens or binoculars – with Fata Morgana, the two are difficult to reconcile. Something is happening on the horizon. Icebergs twist and change shape, move, disappear, elongate. […]


To Hell or Howth: The Hostel of the Red God

To Hell or Howth: The Hostel of the Red God

This is an expanded version of an article I had published in 2006, as part of the programme for Conor McPherson’s play The Seafarer, currently being staged at the National Theatre in London. I was asked to write a piece dealing with the mythology of Howth and places in the Dublin landscape. I soon discovered […]



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